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As temperatures rise and fall, our skin takes note. For many people, the transition from winter to spring calls for a lighter foundation formula and application, as a thick foundation can feel too heavy. Meanwhile, the transition from summer to fall and winter often requires a lighter foundation tone to better suit less sun-exposed complexions.
Meet the expert
- Natalie Dresher is a celebrity makeup artist based in Miami and New York City.
- Jose Corella is a celebrity makeup artist based in Los Angeles.
- Suzy Gerstein is a celebrity makeup artist based in New York City.
This is all to say that no matter the time of year, it’s helpful to know how to lighten your foundation so that you don’t constantly have to buy full new bottles before even finishing your last. Thankfully, makeup artists are willing to share their secrets.
Create Your Perfect Shade
Instead of filling your vanity with tons of different foundation formulas and colors to accommodate every time of year, celebrity makeup artist Natalie Dresher recommends keeping three key foundation shades on hand at all times. “My absolute favorite way to alter my foundation shade is by having three shades—my typical shade, two shades lighter, and two shades deeper,” she explains. “Then I can mix them to the ratio I see fit.”
Stocking up on three shades of concealer can also help you tailor your ideal foundation shade. “To make my current foundation lighter, I take my foundation and keep a Tarte Shape Tape Radiant Concealer ($32) in white," says Dresher. If you have a tanner or deeper complexion, grab "Shape Tape Radiant in three to four shades lighter than your skin tone and mix until [your] desired shade is achieved.”
Celebrity makeup artist Jose Corella follows the same technique. “The easiest way to lighten your foundation at home would be to mix in a lighter shade of concealer,” he says. “Usually the concealer you use under the eye is two to three shades lighter, so if you need to brighten up your foundation this is the perfect trick. Just add as much concealer as you need until it makes a perfect shade.”
When using concealer to lighten your foundation, Dresher says to remember a little goes a long way with pigmentation. “Using the concealer as a mixing medium will maximize the amount of time in the calendar year you’re able to wear your foundation without altering the consistency too much,” she adds.
Additionally, Dresher says to take note of your neck and chest (not your face) when mixing up your perfect hue. Otherwise, you run the risk of noticeable jaw demarcation.
Play With Different Textures
If you want to lighten the formula of your foundation, NYC-based celebrity makeup artist Suzy Gerstein says to experiment with different foundation texture combos.
“A trick I like to use is mixing a thicker product like a stick foundation in with a lighter, more luminous one,” she says. “Tom Ford Stick Foundations ($90) and MAC Face & Body (renamed as Studio Radiance; $42) are a favorite combination that gives coverage where I want it but still creates the impression of skin.”
Switch Up Your Application Technique
The way you apply your foundation can impact the coverage, as well. “There are plenty of ways to lighten up your foundation for spring with items you already have in your makeup and skin-care wardrobe,” Gerstein says. “If I usually use a brush, I like to apply foundation with a damp Beautyblender ($20) on well-moisturized skin for a more sheer finish.”
If you like the idea of a sheer, luminous complexion but worry about your combination or oily skin during transitional weather, Gerstein says to get creative with primer. “Try applying a mattifying primer only in areas that tend to be more textured like either side of the nose,” she suggests.
Add Lightweight Products to Your Routine
Even with various concealer and foundation shades and creative application techniques, Dresher and Gerstein agree that sometimes, brand-new products are necessary to achieve your dream complexion. During spring and summer, Gerstein specifically recommends making room for a tint in your beauty routine. A few popular options include the Dr. Jart Premium BB Tinted Moisturizer with Niacinamide and SPF 40 ($46), CLE Cosmetics CCC Cream ($38), and Chanel LES BEIGES Water-Fresh Tint ($70).
If you’re trying not to spend money on new beauty products, you can create a luminous tinted moisturizer by adding a pump or two of your favorite foundation to your go-to moisturizer.
When working with tints, Gerstein says to start in the center of your face and blend out, adding a bit more product where necessary. “If there are areas that feel like they need more coverage, go in with a stick foundation like the fantastic new one from Ilia (Skin Rewind Complexion Stick, $48), applied as a spot concealer only where needed,” she adds. “With shade selection, opt warmer; with these sheer formulations, you can get away with bumping up the warmth on the skin a few notches, especially going into summer.”
To complete the spring-ready makeup look, Gerstein says to finish with a skin-care-infused mist, like the Lisa Eldridge Skin and Makeup Enhancing Mist ($42). “[Then pat] a radiant product like the Chantecaille Sheer Glow Rose Face Tint ($84) onto the perimeter of the face to fuse the makeup with the skincare and make everything look less cosmetic and more effortless,” she concludes.