Those of us with tight coils are very familiar with the care and maintenance of 4C hair. It's the tightest curl type out there — and is often categorized as the most difficult to look after. Although our hair type is complex, when you're armed with proper knowledge and products, caring for 4C strands doesn't have to feel like a chore.
"The complexity and fluidity of 4C curls are as unique as a fingerprint," says Robin Groover, chief hair officer at beauty tech company Myavana. "Caring for 4C hair requires attention to its unique characteristics and a commitment to maintaining moisture and promoting overall hair health."
- Robin Groover is the chief hair officer and head of R&D for beauty tech company Myavana.
- Todd Edwards is a master stylist at Purple Door Salon in Atlanta and an artist and educator for hair-care brand Mizani.
- Ursula Stephen is a celebrity hairstylist who works with hair-care brand Carol’s Daughter.
To help you curate and optimize your 4C hair-care routine, we've tapped Groover and other textured hair experts for their tips and product recommendations.
What is 4C hair?
“4C curls refer to a specific curl pattern in natural hair texture, particularly in the context of the hair typing system developed by Andre Walker,” says Groover. “This system categorizes hair into different types based on curl pattern and texture. The 4C category is characterized by tightly coiled or kinky curls.”
The hair type has a ziz-zag, Z-shape instead of the C-shape of other curls. “4C hair is more commonly found in people of African descent, including those with ancestry from sub-Saharan Africa,” says Groover. However, research from Myavana, which uses consumer-sent hair samples to identify hair type and offer care recommendations, indicates that many of those who self-diagnose their hair as 4C don’t actually have 4C hair. Hairstylist Todd Edwards echoes this sentiment. “Clients tend to think that if they have a lot of shrinkage, they have 4C hair, which is not always the case,” says Edwards, who is also a Mizani artist.
Key Characteristics of 4C Hair
Tight Colis
"4C hair has tight, small coils ranging from pencil-sized to much smaller," says Groover. "The curls may form a zig-zag pattern or a tight spiral." It's important to note that different curl types may mimic a 4C curl when dehydrated. "The needs of authentic tight coils and dehydrated tight coils are totally different," Groover adds.
Natural Volume
This is my favorite part of having 4C hair. "4C hair tends to have a lot of natural volume, which can be a desirable feature for those who love voluminous hairstyles," says Groover.
Shrinkage
When your curls are super tight, your strands appear much shorter than they actually are. "Shrinkage is a sign of healthy hair," says celebrity hairstylist Ursula Stephen. "It’s a sign that your hair hasn’t lost its elasticity. This is exactly what 4C hair is supposed to do when it hasn’t been compromised by heat damage."
Versatility
"Despite common misconceptions, 4C hair is quite versatile," says Groover. Stephen, who works with Carol's Daughter, adds: "This hair can be manipulated into whatever curl patterns and shapes you desire," says Stephen. When heat-styled sparingly and with care, it holds onto straight looks while lending its natural volume to the look.
Parched & Prone to Dryness
"Because 4C strands grow out vertically, the sebum from the sebaceous glands are not able to travel down the hair strand to lubricate the hair, giving the hair a dried-out feel," says Edwards. Groover notes that "adequate moisturizing and hydration are crucial for maintaining healthy 4C hair."
Style Longevity
Because this hair type tends to be dryer and coarse, you don't have to worry about scalp oils ruining a style. With proper care, you can stretch a twist out or a silk press for over a week. "This hair can hold hairstyles for a long time," says Stephen.
How to Care for 4C Hair
Manually Distribute Natural Oils
"The tight coil pattern of 4C hair makes it more challenging for natural oils produced by the scalp to travel down the hair shaft," says Groover. "As a result, the hair is less lubricated, leading to dryness. This characteristic makes it important for individuals with 4C hair to manually distribute oils through techniques such as finger detangling or using a wide-tooth comb."
Regularly Clarify
Because 4C hair is naturally dry, it's common to reach for super thick products. Some of these have molecular weights that are too large to penetrate the shaft, leading to build-up. This build-up can render your nourishing routine superfluous, as nutrients, moisturizers, and hydrators will just sit on top of hair instead of doing their job within.
When you detox your hair of product buildup, Grooer notes, you can see a big change in its appearance, moisture retention, and manageability. So it’s essential to use a shampoo that removes buildup without stripping moisture. She recommends the Bumble and bumble Sunday Shampoo ($34). Other great options are the Briogeo Scalp Revival Charcoal + Coconut Oil Micro-Exfoliating Shampoo ($42) and the Color Wow Color Security Shampoo ($24).
Focus on Intentional Conditioning
“4C hair may have high porosity, meaning that the hair cuticles have openings or gaps that allow moisture to escape easily,” says Groover. “This can result in difficulty retaining moisture, leading to dryness. Deep conditioning treatments and leave-in conditioners can help improve moisture retention.”
For leave-ins, Stephen loves the Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Hydrating Leave-In Conditioner ($12). “It really helps to moisturize dry and brittle hair, making it manageable and ready to style,” she says. Edwards recommends the Mizani Miracle Milk Cream ($26). He says “it’s an amazing leave-in conditioner, heat protectant, and detangler — my must-have.” For deep conditioning, Robin recommends the Maui Moisture Heal & Hydrate + Shea Butter Hair Mask ($11). The Pureology Hydrate Nourishing Superfoods Treatment Hair Mask ($44) also works wonders.
Get Regular Trims
"Regular trims help prevent split ends and breakage," says Groover. "It's important to keep the ends healthy to support overall hair growth."
Prioritize Strengthening Products
“Our research indicates that combination therapy of strengthening and hydrating treatments provide balance for retention,” says Groover. So incorporating bond-builders and protein-rich products (like those with rice water) is key. For days when I don’t have time to do a moisture and protein mask, I reach for the Olaplex No.3 and No.0 Duo ($60). No. 0 primes the hair for No. 3, a pre-shampoo moisture treatment. The Briogeo Rice Protein + Algae Rich Rice Water Shampoo Concentrate ($42) and Carol’s Daughter Goddess Strength Shampoo ($10) are great strengthening cleansers. For an intensive treatment, try the Cécred Fermented Rice and Rose Protein Ritual ($52). It’s so strong it should be used no more than once every three months.
Practice Nighttime Protection
"Use a satin or silk scarf, bonnet, or sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase to reduce friction and prevent moisture loss while sleeping," says Groover.
Treat Hair With Steam Therapy
Because the cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair shaft, is often compact in 4C hair, it is "more difficult for moisture to penetrate the hair shaft, contributing to dryness," says Groover. "Steam therapy builds hydration from the inside out with short and long-term benefits."
You can go to a salon for a professional steam treatment or do one at home. Snag a hair steamer hood ($80) for the full effect, or fake it by putting on a reusable conditioning cap ($6) over a deep conditioning treatment. Then, take a hot bath or do a sweaty workout to build up body heat and create steam within the cap.
Seal in Moisture
“After applying a leave-in conditioner or moisturizer, seal in the moisture with natural oils such as jojoba, olive, or coconut oil,” says Groover. “This helps to lock in hydration and reduce moisture loss.” the Bread Beauty Supply Everday Gloss ($24), Verb Ghost Weightless Hair Oil ($34), and Cécred Nourishing Hair Oil ($44) are among my faves.
Style With Care
Whatever products you use to style your hair should make your hair both look and feel good. For wet styling like twist-outs and wash-and-gos, Groover recommends the Design Essentials Almond & Avocado Curl Enhancing Mousse ($17) while Edwards suggests the Mizani True Textures Perfect Coil Oil Gel ($26). For heat styling, I love the Pattern Heat Protectant ($20). “Because of how easy it is to damage 4C hair, you should always be using some type of heat protection,” says Edwards.