There’s nothing quite like the mini stomach flip that comes from seeing the words “formal attire” printed on an invitation. First comes the excitement of having an opportunity to get all dolled up. Then, the panic of not knowing what that really means.
By today’s standards, the lines can get a bit blurry, especially with all the subsect requirements; see also, ‘beach formal’. To help clear up any confusion, formal attire is usually reserved for evening events–though like anything else there are exceptions. Aside from weddings or the occasional gala, there are many reasons why one would need formal attire in their arsenal. We’re in the age of opulent birthday, holiday, and niche-themed parties being the norm on social media, some of which require a more polished dress code.
One of the first things to note is that there are levels to formal attire and understanding the differences will go a long way. There’s semi-formal, which is often conflated with cocktail dress codes. Whereas, formal as a blanket term is considered slightly less elevated than black tie and the more rare, ‘white tie’ requirements–unless noted otherwise by the host of the event, of course. (In instances like this, the exact requirements are usually explicitly stated on the invitation or save the date.)
When it comes to the history of formal attire, much like any other dress code, its roots are rich. According to Jovani, the way of dress is riddled with aristocratic and military-inspired details. “These two sources have shaped the way formal wear is designed and worn today, from the fabrics used to the silhouettes and colors. Traditional elements of formal wear have been adapted to fit modern trends, creating a timeless look.” Its earliest beginnings can be traced back to 19th Century Europe and America with origins linked to one George Bryan “Beau” Brummell–who Gentleman's Gazette calls the first ever menswear influencer. A dandy by trade, he’s revered for his friendship with George Prince of Wales and innovative style that we now acknowledge as formal wear.
The upper class began sporting this more elevated attire for evening events–this included dark colors like the more traditional shades of black and blue. Men were wearing corsets and short dresses with skinny trousers underneath–most women wore the latter, too. Over time, as the concept of formal wear evolved so did the pieces themselves. The almost theatrical approach, complete with powder white wigs, opulent outerwear and hosiery, eventually turned into double-breasted coats, and trousers with stripes. Style in the 1920s further solidified this subtle shift towards simplicity. Hemlines continued to rise, with the start of World War I and the women’s suffrage movement.
By World War II formal attire looked completely different than it had during the Regency Era nearly a century before. Famed designers like Coco Chanel and revolutionized formal clothing with inventions like the ‘little black dress’ and Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ era. Then, thanks to the boom in the ready-to-wear market and department stores, evening wear was becoming more affordable which meant it was no longer reserved for the rich. This accessibility aided in the development of dress codes as a social norm, particularly as it pertains to the special occasions on our calendars. Most interestingly, though, is the ways in which formal attire has adapted to fit the needs of society at the time.
Tbilisi designer David Koma further confirmed these sentiments, adding that these changes in the formal wear market were in direct response to the shift in cultural dynamics and forever changing consumer preferences. “While traditional notions of elegance and sophistication remain timeless, there has been a noticeable shift towards more diverse and inclusive representations of beauty and femininity,” he explains. “Designers are increasingly embracing innovative techniques and diverse perspectives to meet the evolving needs.”
In the present day, the requirements for evening wear are relatively straightforward once you understand what type of formality you’re working with. At a base level, women should opt for dresses that fall well below the knee; in some cases a floor or ankle-length option might be more appropriate. However, if a free-flowing frock isn’t your thing, a sharply-tailored suit has proved to be a great options for both men and women–think of the posh Dior tuxedo that Sarah Jessica Parker’s character Carrie Bradshaw wore in the opening scenes of the second Sex and the City movie, with platform stilettos nonetheless. A jumpsuit with capped sleeves or thick shoulder straps, as well as full ball skirts a lá Kendall Jenner at the Met Gala, are also suitable alternatives.
Unless you’re attending a beach ceremony, we suggest steering clear of fabrics like cotton-poplin or gauzy linen, as it has a casualness about it that will appear out of place in more traditional settings. In its place, consider more stately materials like tulle or duchess satin and crepe de chine. Embellishments aren’t necessarily a stipulation but are encouraged if you want to stand out. Sequin beads and delicate embroidery are some of the most common adornments–though feathers and fil-coupe are thrown in the mix from time to time, as well. For Koma, this attention to details is paramount when crafting modern-day formal pieces. “Every stitch, every seam, and every embellishment is meticulously considered to ensure that each garment exudes a sense of sophistication and refinement while instilling confidence and empowerment in the wearer,” he explains.
When it comes to outfit accompaniments, clutch bags are meant to fit comfortably under your arm as your schmooze, while still offering just enough space for your evening essentials. Judith Lieber is great for kitschy, Swarovski statement clutches in novelty designs; Nina has been making collections of formal-friendly bags and shoes from luxe looking materials like satin since 1953. In terms of footwear, stilettos are an obvious choice, though you shouldn’t immediately write off a short kitten heel and the wearability it offers–especially when dancing is imminent.
To Koma, formal attire is transformative and empowers the wearer, "imbuing them with a sense of confidence and grace. Whether it's the fluidity of movement, the precision of tailoring, or the unexpected embellishments that catch the eye, a truly great [piece] leaves a lasting impression.”