As transgender people and gender nonconformists, we are expressive. We are a subculture that understands the importance of appearance, and are keenly aware of the distinction between fashion and function—a distinction that, when getting dressed, often raises the questions: Is this going to conceal what I want it to? Will it highlight the rest? Am I comfortable and, at the same time, stylish? Most people ask themselves those things, but for queer people, there are often follow-ups like Will I be clocked? and Am I still expressing my gender identity? It’s a tight rope we walk in our day-to-day as only we can. And when considering date nights and special occassions, these questions become even more stressful.
As a trans woman, I remember first learning to dress from the waist up; all it took was learning my breast size. However, I wasn’t comfortable with tucking in any of the ways I’d learned via word of mouth or Google searches. It felt uncomfortable, and frankly, it was not a process I wanted to work into my GRWM routine. (This was especially crippling to think about when it came to swimwear). After consulting Google once again and exploring Instagram, I discovered more and more brands popping up that catered to trans and gender non-conforming bodies. In the current era, with trans visibility at the forefront across politics, media and culture at large, it’s high time for the fashion industry to start dressing queer people with more care and intention. These three designers are leading the conversation.
Carmen Liu
Based in the UK, Carmen Sui-Lung Liu started her brand 10 years ago—out of necessity. When Sui-Li began her transition, she quickly realized a derth of lingerie brand for tucking, designed to minimize the appearance of bulging and achieve a smoother, more gender affirming appearance. Like any smart business woman with a can-do attitude, she decided that she would be the one to do it. Carmen Liu has since expanded into bras that vary in sizes to include wider shoulder widths, as well as clubwear and a best-selling satin thong. A 2020 Forbes 30 Under 30 alum, Sui-Lung plans to add additional categories to the line in an effort to fully dress her community. Though functional, Carmen Liu doesn’t skimp on sex appeal, and should be on every trans femme's list.
Chromat x Tourmaline
Chromat has become a staple for stylish people in the know, owing much of that popularity to its sporty-chic bodywear and a brand identity that celebrates body inclusivity. After collaborating with activist and creative Tourmaline on a collection video during the pandemic, Chromat designer Becca McCharen-Tran decided they wanted to continue working together; the duo landed on a swimsuit collaboration.
As a transgender woman, Tourmaline was cognizant of the gap in the market for swimwear designed for varying gender expressions. What I appreciate about the collection is that it caters to varying tastes and comforts. There are rash guards suitable for trans men not ready to go shirtless on the beach; a swim skirt I have my eye on is perfect for girls who want functionality out of their swim bottoms; and bikini tops range in size from XS to 4X. Expect to see plenty of these boldly colored separates on Fire Island and Riis Beach this summer—if you haven't already spotted them.
Judith
A young designer living at the China Town/Lower East Side Boarder (I dare not refer to it as Dimes Square), Erik Goldberg launched their label at the beginning of the pandemic after losing their job at another design house. Had Erik been assigned female at birth, their mother would have named them Judith—beyond chic, in my opinion.
Formally trained at Pratt, Erik had a front-row seat to the transgender renaissance that was birthed during the pandemic. I’ve watched them sew girls into party dresses and design costumes for the lead singers of indie bands; they have their finger on the pulse of what’s happening. Their upcoming collection will be released later this year and features a mix of bold, boudoir-ready lingerie and surrealist-inspired garments. They're all perfect for parties—and late nights at the afters.